The Gourmet Detective
Rare by Drai’s
The Haute Spot On Sunset
by Pamela Price & Michele Elyzabeth
Have you heard? Victor Drai just opened a new eatery on the
Sunset Strip. Once home to Le Dome restaurant, Victor was
called on by ESquared Hospitality to take over the space and
turn it into ‘the haute-spot.’ 8720 Sunset Boulevard is now
home to “Rare by Drai’s.”
The moment we walked inside, there was a ‘special-treatment’
atmosphere as the hostess greeted us. Victor’s signature
design is immediately recognizable with red accents and dark
wood paneling all around. The restaurant is separated into
three different sections: two dining rooms, the bar and a
white-themed terrace. The decor is a fusion between a modern
speakeasy and contemporary California style. It is an
interesting and beautiful contrast between the light color
scheme and the romantic nighttime ambience.
Past the sleek marble top bar, and through a large red
velvet curtain, is the dimly lit main room with white linen
covered tables and floral-clothed chairs. We were shown to
one of the crescent shaped black booths. For a Monday
evening, the restaurant was doing quite well, with couples
and large groups seated throughout.
Just as Victor’s clients have remained loyal to all of his
establishments over the years, so have the people who work
with him. Rare’s manager, Shantel Zorrilla, has been on
Drai’s team since Botero in Las Vegas. She greeted us as we
arrived and was attentive during our entire meal. Chef
Patrick Florendo’s culinary talents have also attributed to
Rare by Drai’s success. We were already admirers of his
cuisine and were looking forward to seeing how he had
married the old with the new from the menu at Drai’s
Hollywood. Chef Florendo is an Australian native who has
worked in award-winning kitchens, from San Francisco to New
York City. He eventually took on the pastry world at Tableau
in Las Vegas before becoming the pastry chef at Victor and
Steve Wynn’s steakhouse, Botero. He has been working with
Victor ever since, moving to Los Angeles to head up Drai’s
Hollywood at the W Hotel and now Rare.
As we were seated, our server handed us the most unique and
modern beverage menu: an iPad. The tablet stores a catalogue
of Rare’s finest wines, Champagnes and cocktails. We decided
to try a glass of wine and one of their signature mixed
drinks. Michele had a glass of the Cabernet from Frank
Family Vineyard, while I took the server’s suggestion:
‘Interview with a Vampire.’ And this is drink is not just a
film title or any ordinary cocktail, Rare’s mixologist,
Chris Hewes, sees drink making as an art. He uses fruit,
herb plants, infusions and natural sweeteners. The sweet and
spicy ‘Interview with a Vampire’ has Fair Trade quinoa vodka
from Peru, with blackberry and raspberry. Hewes uses a
single large round or square ice cube to keep the drink from
diluting its original taste.
Following the drinks, each signature dish was presented at
the table, one after the other. It is clear how meticulously
Chef Florendo designed each plate, from the look to the
taste. We started with their Roasted baby yellow and red
beets with goat cheese, dressed with honey-thyme and white
balsamic ($18). The combination of fresh goat cheese and
beets melts in your mouth. While many restaurants offer the
generic Caesar Salad with chopped romaine and a small amount
of dressing, Rare ‘massages’ the dressing into large pieces
of gem lettuce. This way there is no bland bite. The towered
salad is topped with sourdough croutons and plenty of shaved
parmesan. ($14).
Our favorite of the appetizers is the Spicy Pacific Tuna
Tartare ($18). This is a delicious first-course which Chef
Florendo upgraded from his menu at The W Hotel. The tuna is
tossed with chili and shallots, with dabs of a light avocado
puree on the side. One of Rare’s signatures are their
homemade taro chips, which are perfect for a crunchy bite
along with the tartare.
Of course, with Rare being a steakhouse, many come for the
steak, from the Ribeye to the Hangar. But the most talked
about is the Pepper Steak 10oz Filet with fresh cracked
peppercorn sauce. Cooked to a light medium rare, it is
to-die-for. ($48). Chef Floreno told us that all of Rare’s
meats are butchered in-house.
Going from turf to surf, their Loup de Mere is flown in from
Greece and is farm raised in the Ocean. It’s a whole fish
cooked on the bone for more flavor. Before it is roasted,
the filets are taken off of the spine. Although it is an
entire fish, each bite is light and zesty with fennel and
lemon. ($44). Crispy taro potatoes are added to the bottom
for texture. To accompany our entrees, were three sides.
Blistered shishito peppers with cipollini onions, garlic
sauteed wild mushrooms and charred broccoli with chili. As
Chef Florendo perfectly put it: the peppers are a great
complement to a really thick steak.
By the smile on the Chef’s face, dessert is clearly one of
his most prized creations. They are best known for the Creme
Brulee and Frozen Godiva Candy Bar, both scrumptious. The
candy bar has three layers with peanut butter on the bottom.
It’s deliciously crunchy with chewy caramel and topped with
gold flakes, which dissolve in your mouth. The Creme Brulee
is quite special, made with Tahitian vanilla bean and fresh
fig and Chantilly.
Victor has certainly redefined the ‘steakhouse restaurant’.
As he himself refers to Rare, “our interpretation of today’s
modern, sexy steakhouse.” It’s hip, inviting and high class
from the impeccable service to the food. Another success by
Victor. Well done.
8720 W. Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069